I was there with them for hours but the time went fast as we talked about cycling, what we did for our livings, cycling, food, travelling, and cycling. Finally, an hour or so before the riders would get to where we were, the big advertising armies moved in. T-Mobile and their fleet of 70's era VW bugs and buses, people dressed in various animal suits, people on bikes, motorcycles, unicycles, in cars, and of course the hot hot hot chicks waving to the audience and dancing on the flatbed trailers of trucks piled with speakers.

It was surreal. There would be a love parade type float with the women and the music, and then there would be a beer truck. Then there would be a float with music and women, and then the Credit Lyonnais car with the big plastic rider, complete with five o'clock shadow. And then another loud float, and then a guy dressed like a squirrel throwing pretzels at people.

 

After that it was a big wait. People craning their necks and looking down the road, waiting for the first cars to come into view, signalling that the riders had arrived. And it started raining. And we waited. And it rained more. And still we waited. Then my cell phone rang. It was my father. "They've passed into town and there was a wreck. They're coming around the Louvre now." I closed my eyes and imagined the map in my head. Louvre. Jardin des Tuilleries. Place de Concorde. Then... Champs Elysées.

And finally they arrived. The five hours were up.